A rare and remarkable wildlife moment was watched by guests and crew aboard Lucy Mary as she cruised the Sound of Rum, northwest of the Isle of Eigg on Monday September 15th. A local fisherman had alerted the Skipper, James, of a report of orca in the vicinity.
Wildlife Guide Indy Greene was scanning the seas as usual when he spotted two towering dorsal fins, and glimpses of tail flukes. Even although the sighting was over three miles away, Indy could hear the sound of their blows and knew instantly that he was watching the iconic killer whales, John Coe and Aquarius, the last surviving members of Scotland’s only known resident pod of orcas. The distinct appearance of the orcas, especially the deep nick near the base of John Coe's dorsal fin and the missing chunk in his tail fluke makes them easily recognisable.
Everyone aboard Lucy Mary watched in complete awe for almost an hour as the orcas drew closer to the vessel. A sighting of these unique animals is always thrilling but also poignant as they are the last surviving members of the pod of orca known as the “West Coast Community”. Unlike any other orca group in the northeastern Atlantic, they are about a metre larger and have a distinctive eye patch orientation. Sadly, the population has dwindled over the years, with John Coe and Aquarius believed to be the last remaining members.
For Wildlife Guide Indy Greene it was a mind-blowing, humbling, thought-provoking and unforgettable day that he’ll remember forever, as it was a lifelong dream of his to see John Coe and Aquarius. Indy has been volunteering and working in Hebridean waters since he was 10 years old, and he has missed spotting orca by minutes, many times over the years.
Meanwhile, Skipper James Fairbairns, was capturing unique video footage of John Coe and Aquarius together. Having spotted these orcas many times before, he had never seen them interact in this way, swimming gracefully so close together, sometimes on their sides. It was a very special reunion to witness, as it was the first time the bulls have been spotted together since early May. Throughout the summer, they had only been spotted alone, so it was wonderful for the guests on board to see them so close – it truly was a once-in-a-lifetime experience; a very special and emotional time for everyone on board.
Indy and James have a strong Hebridean family connection. Back in 1996, Indy's father used to work with James’ father, the late Richard Fairbairns, as a guide on Mull. Richard was a pioneer of whale watching and marine research in the Hebrides, with his company Sea Life Surveys. He was a founder of the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Conservation Trust, and was actually involved in naming John Coe in the 1980s. A full circle of marine life expertise has been fulfilled, with Indy as Wildlife Guide and James as Skipper and Director of Hebrides Cruises, providing epic wildlife encounters for guests, while using their knowledge and passion to help protect these animals for the future.
A sighting of a Humpback Whale lunge feeding just metres from the boat happened a few hours before the orca sighting - a fantastic encounter on its own! It was slightly overshadowed by the arrival of John Coe and Aquarius –certainly a day not to be forgotten.
 
           
      



 
         
         
        








 
					 
					







Chris went out of his way to avoid the threatened weather, with the happy result that the weather was much better than expected at this time of year. The team also arranged the itinerary to make sure that, where a guest had specific requests, these were accommodated (and without having a negative impact on the other guests). They tried very hard to show us as many species of wildlife as possible and to introduce us to areas and their history that we might not have been aware of. The guided walks were much more interesting than going on our own and the crew took great care in getting us all on and off shore, with radios for safety when we decided to split up. The presence of Hannah, in particular, made all the difference. Her knowledge of the local wildlife was exceptional and it was very interesting to hear about the islands and communities that we visited. She (and Chris) kept a look-out to make sure that anything of interest was highlighted to us on the voyage and her end of day wrap up reminded us of what we’d seen. Craig looked after us very well and seemed to be everywhere – he was certainly very hard working. I think that he cleaned the cabins as well – he definitely did a good job there. Along with Hannah, the meals that Izzy cooked were the best thing about the cruise for me. On a previous cruise (with another small company), the quality and service of the food (and the garrulous chef) spoiled the cruise for me. I was a little worried about this when I joined this cruise, but needn’t have been. Izzy was a great cook, providing a nice variety of well-cooked meals. Serving sizes were appropriate for the daily menus and we did not go hungry (or leave the table feeling too full). I looked forward to seeing what the next meal would be and also very much enjoyed her cakes. The whole team looked after us very well, but weren’t too obtrusive, allowing us to have quiet moments and to talk amongst ourselves.
Jo Boait: 21 September 2024The Small Isles and sea lochs: Wildlife havens