Visiting St Kilda is a privilege that has been my ambition for many years. Rain, rolling seas and thick mist could not dent my excitement. Three miles off the archipelago the cloud lifted to 300 feet and Hirta emerged from the murk. Kilda must be dramatic on a clear day, but the eerie shape of Dùn, rising like a half submerged dragon head, protecting Village Bay from Atlantic storms, heralded an emotive and unforgettable visit to the most westerly part of the British Isles. We spent a few hours ashore, taking in the unique and emotional remnants of twenty centuries of inhabitation, then the following morning we circumnavigated Hirta and Boreray. Countless seabirds swarmed in the skies, into and out of the mist; avian crowded stacs rose out of sapphire seas, teaming with seals, while puffins flapped, guillemots and razorbills chattered, gannets and fulmars soared while skuas watched them, and Soay and Boreray sheep danced across the cliff faces like mountain goats. Then we headed east and, as quickly as she had emerged, Kilda was reclaimed by the mist. The rest of the trip was great, and the weather even improved! Skipper Jake got us everywhere we wanted to go with easy going professionalism, wildlife guide Lauren’s love and knowledge of the seabirds and cetaceans was infectious, chef Charlie’s cooking was superlative, international and sooo tasty, and steward Tani was just lovely, proactive and personable. Also, as a solo traveller, it can be daunting spending 10 days with a dozen strangers…but the other passengers were as wonderful as the crew. 5***** Thank you Hebrides Cruises.